When I was building Bumblestook for autocross, I went a bit wild with everything and got a Haltech Racepak IQ3 dash installed. It was great for datalogging and also seeing important sensor details like oil temp and pressures so I've left it on ever since. However, more recently it's been bother me that I haven't been able to enjoy seeing my stock S2000 dash. I've always loved how it looks and from a practicality perspective, not being able to see my fuel gauge can be a problem. Eventually I found out that Haltech teamed up with gaugeART to release a CAN gauge that'd be able to display any number of data points from my Haltech ECU all in a nice 52mm package.
Haltech gaugeART CAN Gauge
Since I've been busy with events all year I didn't want to mess with installing this but now that I'm mostly done for the season I figured I'd finally tackle this project. First up was to remove my Racepak dash. This has always been removable but I wanted to fully disconnect it which meant getting rid of the mount for it as well as yank out all the cables that went to it.
removing the steering wheel to remove the bracket
This spiraled into me having to remove my steering wheel and indicator stalk mounts so I could get to the bolt securing the bracket. Then I had to remove my center console and radio to start yanking out the USB cables and momentary switches wired in to control and program the dash.
mount finally gone
removing all the wires going to controls hidden in my center console
Weight savings
Unfortunately, it was at this point that I realized that the new gauge came with a DTM-4 connector and I needed an 8-pin Tyco adapter to connect it to the Haltech CAN hub I have going to my ECU. This would normally require an adapter and I'd have to wait a few more days to complete this project. Thankfully I had a spare Tyco connector and pins from when I was trying to hook up my Solo2 datalogger. This took longer than I was hoping because I wired up the connect just like the Racepak dash was wired and it wouldn't turn on. Eventually I looked up the wiring diagram for the 8-port Tyco and realize that ground was pin4 and CAN low was pin 3 and I had them the other way around. Not sure how the racepak was working unless the wire colors were different.
de-pinning the DTM4 connector
Crimping on new pins
New connector good to go
Connected to the 6-port CAN hub
I verified everything was working then used my iPhone to configure the gauge. Once I knew everything was working I put everything back in place and mounted it to my a-pillar using an Autometer single gauge pod. I'd a pretty clean install and I'm glad there's only a single gauge so it's not ricey.
