During Christmas I was driving behind a pickup truck when I heard a rock or something hit the top of the windshield. It didn't sound like much but within a few minutes a crack about 12" long started to develop so had to get the windshield replaced today. Replaced by Safelite and then camera recalibrated.
Last week I installed the Only944 shifter that got rid of a lot of the play in the shifter itself but the big change I wanted was to reduce the shift throws because they are quite long from the factory. Only944 makes a replacement shifter linkage that's all metal and reduces the shift throws by 30% as well as a replacement shift linkage arm using high quality heim joints for direct and smooth operation. Removal of the factory shift linkage and arm was a bit of a bear. The bolts came out pretty easily but I needed to pick up a pulley remover set to be able to separate it from the transmission shaft. The shift linkage arm is connected via a 17mm bolt at the top of the transmission which has very little room so getting that out involve reaching over the transmission to try and work a ratcheting wrench in small increments.
Factory Shift Linkage removed
You can see the difference between the factory pieces and the fresh Only944 ones. They're super high quality pieces that I expect will provide many years of good service.
Factory vs Only944 shift linkage and arm
You have to separate the new ball joint from the shift linkage arm in order to install it to the hole left by removing the factory linkage arm. This was the most annoying part because there's no visibility, hardly any room to get your hand in there and you need a 1.5" long 11mm wrench to try and tighten it (thankfully Only944 sell this too if you don't want to fabricate one yourself). Once you get that in, you then need to reconnect the arm to the ball join which requires a fair bit of force. I ended up using a ratchet strap and yanking down on it to get enough force to push the ball joint in then long skinny plies to slot the clip back in place.
Only944 shift linkage arm installed
Next up was installing the new shifter linkage. This was much easier after fighting that ball joint. The only extra thing was to reinstall new safety wire on the bolt securing it to the black shifter rod and putting the boot back over it. The instructions didn't say to do either but it seemed logically to reinstall safety wire that was there before to make sure it doesn't back out and it can't hurt to put the boot back on.
Safety wire
Everything installed including safety wire - Boot pulled over bolt after photo was taken
I kept the top nut loose so I could go back in the car and make sure the shifter was centered then tightened it back down. It's a 13mm nut and you need an thin 11mm wrench to keep the ball joint from rotating while you tighten it down. The combined result of the new shifter, short shift linkage and shift linkage arm is a much more crisp, notchy shift that's the perfect throw distance. Although I cursed myself for not being able to just leave things alone while doing the install, the results were quite rewarding and worth it especially as a winter project.
I love manual transmission cars but I can't stand sloppy shifters. I'll say that the condition of the shifter on my 944 S2 was pretty decent but it could be better. I got the short shifter, shift linkage and shifter from Only944 and focused on getting the shifter installed today.
OEM shifter left, Only944 shifter right
Earlier generation 944s had more rubber in the shifter but it seems the 944 S2 has more solid pieces so that probably contributed to the better feel. However, the way it's designed still allowed for some lateral play. The instructions were super clear. Only a circlip and two 13mm bolts hold the shifter in place. I then put it in a vice so I could pry off the plastic ball cup at the bottom using two flat head screwdrivers. Since it's been colder recently, I heated the ball a little bit before attempting this and it came out smoothly without cracking. I then transferred the ball cup and shifter base plate to the new shifter.
Getting ready to remove the ball cup from the stock shifter
Ball cup removed
I installed the new shifter and transferred over the rubber pieces that secure the shift knob and boot in place, lubracated the bearings and tightened everything. Unfortunately, the alignment was a off so the shifter would hit the metal oval ring when I tried to go into 1st and 2nd gear so further adjustment was needed. I had to jack the car up, remove the left rear wheel, loose then bolt going to the shift linkage (13mm and 17mm bolt/nut), re-center the shifter, then tighten it all back again. This was annoying since I have a muffler heat shield preventing me from getting a clear view of the bolt I needed to loosen but after a few tries I was able to get a wrench and socket in there.
Shifter installed and aligned
Overall, this feels so much better. Every gear shift feels nice and tight. I can't wait to get the short shifter installed since that's really going to get this more to my liking.
One known failure point that can leave you stranded in a 944 is the DME relay. The relay controls power to the DME (ECU) and the fuel pump. Most people just either constantly preemptively replace the relay as a wear item or bring a spare with them in the glove box just in case. The relay is mechanical and can therefore wear and eventually fail but there are thankfully better alternatives out there.
Focus 9 Technology Solid State DME Relay
I picked up a modern solid state DME relay from Focus 9 Technology which is a direct swap for the OEM relay. Not only does it feature a solid state design that has no mechanical parts to wear, this version also offers a "pump prime" feature where putting the key in the on position, allows the fuel pump to prime for 3 seconds before you even start the car. This makes the fuel pressure perfect at start lessening the time it takes to get the car started. I also opted for the version with diagnostic LEDs. I can easily see when the relay is getting power, when it's pump priming and whether it's all working. Since my old relay is still working, I'm just keeping it in my glove box just in case anyway or to help a fellow 944 owner if they ever run into a DME issue.
Relay installed and pump prime mode
Car running and relay fully active
Looking at the car's service history I also noticed it's been more than a year since the oil was last changed on the car and it was looking a bit dark. The previous owner was using Valvoline VR1 20W-50 which is a really good oil with high zinc. I've personally been using Driven Racing Oil in all my Porsches also due to its high ZDDP values and I wanted to do the same here so I drained the oil and put in fresh Driven DT-50 which is 15W-50 oil. The car is noticeably running smoother with the new oil.
Fresh DT50 oil
New Mahle OC142 filter
The location and orientation of the oil filter means that it's a bit of a messy situation when removing. There's practically no way to remove it without dumping at least some point down below. I let the oil drain for about 3 hours in order to try and get as much of the oil out of the system and filter and that seems to have helped quite a bit. I also stuffed a bunch of paper towels around the base of the filter to absorb as much as I could. While I did have to do some cleanup, it wasn't as messy as I had originally expected.
Rennline fire extinguisher mount + Element E50 fire extinguisher
I also keep a fire extinguisher in all my older vehicles for added safety. While the previous owner did have a larger fire extinguisher under the passenger seat, I gave it back to him before taking ownership since I prefer the Rennline mount and using the much more compact and easier to use Element Fire E50 fire extinguisher.
One of the cosmetic things that I felt detracted from the look of the interior of the 944 was the aftermarket Sony head unit from 2011. While it was certainly nice to have bluetooth on the drive home, I wanted something with a more period correct look but with modern features. I ended up getting a Blaupunkt Frankfurt RCM 82 DAB radio with the Metra wire harness and it makes such a difference.
Blaupunk Frankfurt
Old Sony Headunit
Metra wiring harness soldered and heat shrink wrapped
I also replaced the steering wheel. It already had a suede Momo steering wheel but I preferred the Momo Prototipo heritage edition with distressed leather. I think it looks better and is easier to clean.
Momo Prototipo Heritage
I also wanted to fix the external lighting. The upgraded H4 headlights are better but I wanted something a bit brighter so I got the LED conversion kit from Only944.com along with amber LED foglights.
LED headlights and amber LED fog lights
On the drive back I realized how old the wipers must've been because it kept on skipping so I got some fresh Bosch Microedge 19" wipers all around.
If it wasn't already obvious, when my garage renovation included a dual 4-post lift, you knew the 4th spot in the garage was destined to be filled. I've been looking at cars for months now hopping all over the place from Lotus Elises, 70s era 240Zs, newer GT cars, and oddly (to some) the Porsche 944. I've always loved the look of these cars. The pop up headlights, boxy hips and 80s styling really resonated in some weird way.
1991 Porsche 944 S2
I've seen some extremely clean ones being sold for nutty prices and some very questionable cheap ones that left a lot to be desired and everything in between. For me, buying and old car is very much about buying the owner and finding the right owner that shared my ownership philosophy can be tough. I happened to be looking at the PCA Mart when I stumbled across this 1991 944 S2 with 95K miles. It was listed as:
"Excellent driving S2 in pristine condition. Conti DWS06 tires, Konis, adjustable front spring perch w/200# front springs, M030 front & rear bars, SS brake lines, SS Dansk cat back exhaust, MOMO steering wheel, stock included, air bags disabled, AC converted to R134, blows cold, Hella H4 headlights on aux relays. All electrics & mechanical work. Clutch, flywheel & pressure plate replaced at 64,000 mi. Timing belts and rollers replaced at 85,000 mi. No cracks in dash or rips in seats. Carpets like new. Recent new front LCA's, CV joint assemblies. Car cover. Receipts for all work back to 2011. Original manuals in pouch. Spare Key. Porsche Certificate of Authenticity. CARFAX"
The car was clearly taken care of so I contacted the owner. He'd had the car for about a year and a half but the owner before him had it for 16 years. We talked about the car and the previous owner. You have to remember these cars were pretty unwanted cheap cars for a while so many were either neglected or just maintained at a bare minimum. The previous owner did everything I would've done including lots of pre-emptive maintenance and putting in a lot of money to making sure it always ran right. How someone treats a "cheap" car speaks volumes to me about how the car will be in general and that owner clearly loved this car. Nothing was left to chance. Anything and everything that needed to be done was either replaced or upgraded. This was a true turn key car.
The engine bay was immaculate but shy of concourse clean (great since I don't have to be super careful and worried all the time). Even the spare trunk location was just insanely clean. The undercarriage continued with the same story. This is the kind of car to get excited about. There were no cracks in the dash, no rips on the seats, the carpet was mint, heck even the clock actually works. I had the guy give me a few more pictures and walkthrough videos. We agreed on a price that was a bit less than asking but a fair deal for both of us and wired the money over.
Cold start and walkthrough (by previous owner)
Since the car seemed well sorted and even had Continental DWS tires on it so it could handle the cold, I figured I could save some transport money if I just flew down to Orlando, Florida and drove it back up so that's what my wife and I did Saturday morning.
1991 Porsche 944 S2 a.k.a. Stewie
The owner was a super nice snow bird from Canada. He likes to tinker with cars and well this car is almost too sorted for him. He sold it to fund his other 944 project where 's putting in an LS motor and making it a track car. This car was a bit too mint for him to consider that level of molestation with. I had already ordered, and started to receive, some mods for the car earlier that week so as soon as I got there I put on my Rennline phone mount so I could easily navigate home then we took off on our 1,111 mile journey home.
Rennline ExactFit mount with MagSafe mount
It wasn't long before we were driving through pouring rain and tornado warnings and I found the first "flaw" with the car. The wiper blades were a bit old and were skipping a bit unless the windshield was completely soaked. If it was just damp it didn't really clean too well but it'd be fine enough for getting home. The AC worked extremely well. It had been converted in 2017 to a Kuehl AC Compressor kit from Griffiths and is now running R134a. It got so cold I had to turn the AC all the way down to no freeze to death. The heat also worked incredibly well.
Taking a little break
Last Buc-ee's in South Carolina
We planned to stop in Fayetteville, North Carolina Saturday night and decided to make a final fuel stop at the last Buc-ee's in South Carolina on our way up. If you've never been, it needs to be on your list. This is beyond being a normal gas station, it's the best gas station ever with the most amazing food and the cleanest bathroom you've ever seen. Go watch some Youtube videos if you're curious. The next day, we finished our rather uneventful journey home and this 944 S2 which I've now dubbed as "Stewie" (S2WIE) officially joined the Steguis Motorsports fleet.
Stewie is home
Today I also installed new 19" wiper blades all around so I'll have a better experience if I have to drive in the rain again.
Bosch MicroEDGE 40719A
From the Porsche side of things, my fleet now includes an interesting story of the evolution of Porsche starting with the 1983 911SC that was supposed to be the final year of the 911 to be replaced with the new watercooled Porsche 928 "transaxle" car . The retirement of the 911 never happened and continues to this day. The 944 was created with fewer cylinders than the 928 and was made until in 1991 when the final iteration of the 944 line, the 944 S2, was released. The S2 largely retained the same body in the final years but had adopted the 944 Turbo bumpers, brakes and transmissions and got the 3.0L NA 4-cylinder, the largest displacement 4-cylinder engine of its time. The 1991 944 S2 in particular has more in common with the 968, the last of the transaxles that followed until 1995, than the earlier 944. The Boxster the took over in 1996 followed by the Cayman in 2005 became the mid-engine 911 alternative.
First Impressions
Well after spending over 1100 miles of driving over 2 days driving through sun, rain and temperatures that went from 86F all the way down to 45F these are my thoughts and experiences:
This is a terrific car. It was everything the seller presented it to be and more. The car ran smoothly with no major issues during the entire journey.
This car feels absolutely solid. It's a 32 year-old car but lacks any rattles or squeaks. It's in fact quieter and more comfortable than my 4 year old Mini Cooper S.
You can feel the distinct balance offered by the front engine but rear transmission transaxle layout especially in the corners. There is terrific steering feel and feedback even with the hydraulic steering.
Brakes are excellent at any speed
This is probably my slowest car. At around 200hp at the crank, it only puts down probably 160 to the wheels and weighs as much as my Cayman so it's not winning any drag races, at least not in NA form. However, I can feel in the corners how well balanced this and it's confidence inspiring evening in torrential downpours.
The cruise control is a bit temperamental. Sometimes it won't engage then it will again. Seems to be a common issue that I may or may address. Other than this road trip, I really don't use cruise control anyway.
The H4 headlights are ok but certainly not the brightest. I've got an upgrade ready to install soon.
The Sony radio from over 10 years ago is fine for basic bluetooth function and I'm glad we had decent audio on the drive home but I can't wait to put on my period correct looking Blaupunk Frankfurt to replace it.
Clutch engagement is on the high side. It's not because of a worn clutch, apparently they're like this but there is some adjustment so I may try to have this engage a bit lower.
The engine is pretty quick revving and I feel like it's got a slightly lightweight flywheel. The revs climb and drop pretty quickly when I clutch in and blip the throttle. Took a bit to get used to getting a proper rev match in.
Kudos to whoever setup the suspension and aligned it. The ride is firm on the Koni yellows but comfortable and responsive and the car drives straight as an arrow even with no hands on the wheel.
The 21 gallon fuel tank is insane and I got between 27-30mpg on the highway. We spent around $150 in fuel going from Orlando FL to North Jersey.
Overall I'm super happy with this purchase. I bought it for a price where if I wanted to get out of it I wouldn't lose any money but I think this one is staying with me for a bit. It offers a very distinct driving experience from my other cars and call me a little child but man, I do love those popup headlights.
We always get the undercarriage fluid filmed before the winter but it really smells like farm animals when you do that so I wanted to get the oil change done first.
Dirty oil filter out
Then took the Jeep to my friend Steve DeRosa to get the undercarriage covered in fluid film for rust prevention.
I've been hearing a bit of burping recently on the back of the Cayman if I don't drive the car often enough. The last time I heard that noise (but much louder) was when I accidentally left the cover where the oil and coolant fillers are located in the trunk open. From what I understand this is part of the natural burping process as the coolant expands, however, my understanding is that the rubber gasket on the cap can start to dry up and fail over time so I figured now would be a good time to replace it.
New coolant trunk cap
They're cheap enough to replace and this one is now 16 years old so it's probably overdue.
When I was building Bumblestook for autocross, I went a bit wild with everything and got a Haltech Racepak IQ3 dash installed. It was great for datalogging and also seeing important sensor details like oil temp and pressures so I've left it on ever since. However, more recently it's been bother me that I haven't been able to enjoy seeing my stock S2000 dash. I've always loved how it looks and from a practicality perspective, not being able to see my fuel gauge can be a problem. Eventually I found out that Haltech teamed up with gaugeART to release a CAN gauge that'd be able to display any number of data points from my Haltech ECU all in a nice 52mm package.
Haltech gaugeART CAN Gauge
Since I've been busy with events all year I didn't want to mess with installing this but now that I'm mostly done for the season I figured I'd finally tackle this project. First up was to remove my Racepak dash. This has always been removable but I wanted to fully disconnect it which meant getting rid of the mount for it as well as yank out all the cables that went to it.
removing the steering wheel to remove the bracket
This spiraled into me having to remove my steering wheel and indicator stalk mounts so I could get to the bolt securing the bracket. Then I had to remove my center console and radio to start yanking out the USB cables and momentary switches wired in to control and program the dash.
mount finally gone
removing all the wires going to controls hidden in my center console
Weight savings
Unfortunately, it was at this point that I realized that the new gauge came with a DTM-4 connector and I needed an 8-pin Tyco adapter to connect it to the Haltech CAN hub I have going to my ECU. This would normally require an adapter and I'd have to wait a few more days to complete this project. Thankfully I had a spare Tyco connector and pins from when I was trying to hook up my Solo2 datalogger. This took longer than I was hoping because I wired up the connect just like the Racepak dash was wired and it wouldn't turn on. Eventually I looked up the wiring diagram for the 8-port Tyco and realize that ground was pin4 and CAN low was pin 3 and I had them the other way around. Not sure how the racepak was working unless the wire colors were different.
de-pinning the DTM4 connector
Crimping on new pins
New connector good to go
Connected to the 6-port CAN hub
I verified everything was working then used my iPhone to configure the gauge. Once I knew everything was working I put everything back in place and mounted it to my a-pillar using an Autometer single gauge pod. I'd a pretty clean install and I'm glad there's only a single gauge so it's not ricey.
This is our last year at Watkins Glen with S2K Takeover so I wanted to bring Bumblestook out. While the weather wasn't overly cold, day 1 was just rain all day making it a bit miserable especially as it would stop raining and then rain again just as the track was showing some signs of drying.
Watkins Glen International - 10-16-2023
I didn't care though, a wet track day at The Glen is still loads more fun than a day at the office so I went out almost every session and just being mindful of the significantly reduced grip. After all, wet driving is excellent driver training.
Watkins Glen International - 10-16-2023
We went to Grist Iron Brewing Company for dinner which would've been a really good spot with a view but alas the rain just kept relenting.
Grist Iron Brewing Company
Day 2 was nice. The sun actually came out to dry the track by the 2nd session. I don't know if the rain the day before was messing with my head or my random oil pressure warning light kept distracting me but I found it hard to get really comfortable and I clocked in my best time that was 10 seconds slower than my time last year in the Cayman.
Watkins Glen International - 10-17-2023
I also had a weird thing happen where I got some oil spray from my oil catch can. Somehow some oil had worked its way through the filter and then got sucked through my hood vents onto my windshield. That also was not comforting. I'm going to spend this winter going over every aspect of the car. My current theory is that the check valve for the catch can drain isn't opening up quickly enough. I don't think I even need that valve so I may just ditch it.
Some oil escaping my catch can
Overall those, it was such a blast and I'm going to have to figure out another club to run with next year since I need to get my annual "Glen" fix.
