People remote mount their aftermarket oil pressure sender on their S2000 all the time but oddly it's hard to find details on what they used and even fewer photos.
Last week I replaced my failed oil pressure sender but I had to mount it directly onto the block like it was before since I ran out of time. After a successful track day at NJMP a few days ago, I figured it was time to tackle this to reduce the chances of the new sensor either failing due to vibration or maybe even snapping off.
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| AEM stainless 100PSI oil pressure sender remote mounted - 6-28-2020 |
Here are the details if you want to do it yourself assuming you're using an AEM oil pressure sender or similar sender that has 1/8" NPT threads (pretty much all aftermarket oil pressure senders use 1/8" NPT). I chose to use this
Prosport Remote Oil Sender Install Kit from Tatis Motorsports. The kit is technically designed for a WRX but the kit includes two pieces you'll use; 24" of braided stainless hose that's 1/8" NPT on both ends and a 90 degree female NPT to female NPT adapter. It also includes a rubber cushioned mounting bracket but that's for 1.5" diameter senders. The AEM is about 1" is you can either go buy one that 1" of those or just zip tie it into place somewhere like I did.
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| Prosport Remote Oil Sender Install Kit - 6-28-2020 |
You'll also need a 1/8" female NPT to 1/8" male BSPT adapter since the hole in the block is 1/8" BSPT. I applied some hondabond to the thread then snugged the NPT to BSPT adapter together. You don't want to over tighten this.
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| 1/8" NPT to 1/8" BSPT adapter connect to one end of hose |
You'll do the same thing on the other end this time connecting the 90 degree female NPT to female NPT adapter included in the kit. Snug up one side to the braided hose and the other side to the oil pressure sender itself. Again, you want this snug. Don't over tighten.
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| AEM oil pressure sender attached to other end of hose. |
Finally, apply a bit of hondabond onto the threads of the 1/8" NPT to 1/8" BSPT adapter and thread it by hand into the block. Make sure to snug it up. Don't go crazy tightening this or you can and will crack the block then you'll have a really bad day. Let the hondabond cure for 24 hours before starting the car and verify there are no leaks. If any of the connections leak, chances are you probably just need to tighten just a little bit more. It's really that simple. 24 inches of braided hose is enough to locate your sender wherever you need. Ideally you'll want to move it away from the header if possible to reduce its exposure to excess heat. I guess a lot of people just zip tie it to the cross bar on the frame. I left mine roughly where it was before since I didn't have a lot of slack in the wire going back to my ECU to play with.
