Just noting maintenance done on the Jeep.
Maintenance Update:
Mileage: 80,982
- New mopar oil filter
- 6qt Castrol Edge 5W-20
Just noting maintenance done on the Jeep.
Maintenance Update:
Mileage: 80,982
- New mopar oil filter
- 6qt Castrol Edge 5W-20
For the past few months I noticed something odd, every now and then I'd have the 911 on my CTEK charger but it'd throw an error that the battery wasn't holding charge. I figured that my battery was just dying but it's really only been 3 years. Still after the battery just wouldn't charge anymore, I bought a brand new battery and noticed the same thing was happening. I decided to check for any draw on the battery while the car was off and key out of the ignition and it measured 370mA. That's way too high especially for an "old car" with barely any electronics.
370mA of draw |
35mA static draw with the new ignition switch |
It's been about a year now since the last oil change. We've only logged about 6K miles on the car since then. I'd normally change the oil at around the 5K mark but I think this is fine. Oil level has been rock solid. Haven't had to top it off or anything like that.
Maintenance Update:
Mileage: 77,141
- 5L Liquimoly 0W-20
- New Mahle oil filter
- New oil filter housing (messed up the plastic drain screw last time so replaced the whole thing with a new housing this time)
- New oil drain copper washer
- New rubber oil drain gasket
Once the S2000 starts to generate heat around the suspension, it started to having this clunking knocking sound at low speed like driving around a parking lot. It wouldn't do this at high speed (or at least I couldn't hear it) and it didn't seem to affect performance but it was really annoying me. I resolved to fix this. First, the rear lower control arm spherical bushing had to go. It had started to wear and had a mm or so of play in it causing that knocking sound. This bushing doesn't really need to be a spherical so I opted to have it replaced with Hardrace hard rubber bushings instead. This is still going to provide good feel while improving NVH.
Hardrace hard rubber rear lower control arm bushings |
worn out sphericals |
Swift thrust sheets |
Control arm spherical adjusted |
New alignment looking great |
I was continuing to have oil leaks from both the front and rear main seals on the 944 so I took it to Lee Autoworks to have this fixed once and for all. He found the crankshaft to having about 1.4mm of play which is well outside of tolerance which should be less than 0.4mm so we agreed to pull the engine out and have a closer look.
Engine out inspection on the 944 |
Fresh parts are here |
Engine back in and fully functional |
Last year while I was changing oil I noticed a bit of greased around the brake sensor and realized it was coming from the CV boots (both sides). I don't think it was turn but rather leaking by the clamps. Either way, they were getting old and after 17 years, I think the rubber had served its purpose. I ordered a new CV boot kit from Suncoast and finally today went over to Lee's Autowerks so he could make quick work out of it. While it was there also had him change the transmission fluid since the OS Giken diff was started to get a bit whiny.
Leaky CV boot |
Well for a few weeks now my CTek battery tender would keep showing the red light when trying to charge the battery on Scarlett. I thought maybe it was just the charger being bad but sure enough, the battery was down to 10V and was not holding charge. Very strange since it was only about 3 years old and I haven't put that many miles on the car. Either way, replaced it with a new battery and all is fine again.
Maintenance Update:
Mileage: 173,372
- New Duralast Platinum H6 / Group 48 AGM battery