One thing I wanted to fix on the 944 was the ride height. The rear sagged too much and the fronts were too high. I also didn't have enough camber. To fix this I bought a pair of Racer's Edge camber plates
I took the car to Lee at Hybrid Motorsports and had him install it along with reindexing the rear torsion bar (which I'll note appears to have already been upgraded to 27mm at some point) to raise the rear for a more even ride height.
The Mini is now 5 years old so I was expecting the battery to start going bad soon. Well it seems the cold weather has started to finally reveal its impending doom by borderline being unable to start in freezing temperatures so I wanted to get ahead of it and replace it before it truly dies.
Original BMW is finally dying
Removing it is a bit fiddly with a few panels that need to get taken out for clearance but I'm glad it's not really as bad as some videos made it out to be where they even removed the intake. I'm not sure if it's because I have the Eventuri intake but after I removed the front panel, it was easy enough to slide up and out.
New Duralast Platinum AGM battery installed
I replaced it with an equal capacity Duralast Platinum AGM battery then used Bimmerlink to register the new battery with the system so it knows it's new.
The battery in Bumblestook is about 5 years old now and while the battery still seems ok, I didn't really want to risk having it die on me at a track day so I picked up a new Antigravity ATX-30-HD battery to replace the existing ATX-30-HD.
Weather is getting colder and starting to see salt on the roads to it's time think about packing up the cars for the winter. In preparation, time to get the old oil out of the Cayman and put in the fresh stuff.
For the past few months I noticed something odd, every now and then I'd have the 911 on my CTEK charger but it'd throw an error that the battery wasn't holding charge. I figured that my battery was just dying but it's really only been 3 years. Still after the battery just wouldn't charge anymore, I bought a brand new battery and noticed the same thing was happening. I decided to check for any draw on the battery while the car was off and key out of the ignition and it measured 370mA. That's way too high especially for an "old car" with barely any electronics.
370mA of draw
I unplugged every fuse and relay from the car and nothing changed. This was bizarre. I eventually gave up and took it to Lee's Autowerks so he could get to the bottom of it. He eventually found the source of the problem but it wasn't the usual suspects. For whatever reason, the ignition switch had become faulty and the contacts terminal 30 and terminal X was closed (on) all the time. You can see in this video comparing it to the a new ignition switch (later installed in the car) that those contacts should be normally open.
Faulty ignition switch (left) vs new normally working one (right)
With the new ignition switch install and key out of the car, you the draw is now only 35mA which is well within the 100mA max static draw noted in the service manual. Big thanks to Lee for getting this all sorted so I don't have to worry about the battery just dying on me if it's not on a tender all the time.
